
Glass. 
Book. 






If 



NELSONS' GUIDE 



LAKE GEORGE 



6/^ 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 



WITH OIL-COLOUR VIEWS DRAWN FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
TAKEN EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK. 



' BHght scenes of mountain and of lake. 
With rugged glens, where torrents break 

111 floods of silver white ; 
Mid cliflfs, and crags, and flinty peaks. 
Green woods, and isles, and flowing creeks— 

In checkered shade and light." 



LONDON: 

T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW: 

EDINBURGH ; AND NBW YORK. 



MDCCCLXIX. 






INDEX. 



Page 

Albnrg Springs, 47 

Ash Island. 47 

Au Sable River, 38 

Au Sable Chasm and Falls, 38 

Basin Harbour, ^^ 33 

Benson, 31 

Black Mountain, 15, 16 

Bloody Pond, 5 

Bolton, 6, 8, 15 

Burlington, 35 

Caldwell, 6, 7 

Camel's Hump, 31, 37 

Chazy Landing, 45 

Chimney Point, 33 

Crown Point, 31 

Cumberland Head, 45 

Diamond Island, 14 

Dome Island, 15 

Essex, 34 

Fort William Henry Hotel, 6 

Fort William Henry, Ruins of, 7 
Fort William Henry Massacre, 10 
Fort George, Ruins of, ... 7 

Fort Ticonderoga, 20 

Fort Cassin, 33 

Four Brothers, 35 

Fourteen Mile Island, 16 

Garfield, 6 

Glen's Falls, 4 

Highgate Springs, 47 

Howe's Landing, 2% 

Isle La Motte, 45 

Isle aux Noix, ^ 47 

Juniper Island, ." 35 

Keeseville, 38 

LaColle, 47 

Lake Champlain, 25 

Lake House, 6 

Lake George, ^ 



Fag« 

Lake George, H«adwater8 of, 9 

Lake George, Islands of, ... 12 
Lake George, the Narrows of, 16 

Long Island, 15 

Mansfield Mountain, ... 31, 37 

Minne-ha-ha Steamer, ... 7 

Missisquoi Bay, 48 

Mohican House, 6 

Moimt Defiance, 25 

Mount Independence, 25 

North-West Bay, 15 

Orwell 31 

Plattsburg, 40 

Plattsburg, Battle oJ^ ... 41-45 

Port Henry, 33 

Port Kent, 37 

Port Jackson, 38 

Pottier's Point, 35 

Prisoners' Island, 19 

Rock Dundee, 35 

Rogers' Slide, 18 

Rouse's Point, 46 

Sabbath-day Point, 18 

Saratoga Springs, 4 

Saranac River, 40 

Shelving Rock, 8, 15 

South Hero, 45 

Split Rock, 34 

St. Anthony's Nose, 19 

Ticonderoga Fort, 20 

Ticonderoga Falls, 20 

Tongue Mountain, 15 

Toole's Inn, 6 

Trembleu Point, 37 

Valcour Island, 38 

Westport, 33 

Whitehall, 29 

Winooski, 37 



;.|, 



SD 



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K> 



UKE GEORGE AND LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 



[The Engravings in this work are from Photographs taken expressly 
for the Publishers, by the eminent photographer, Mr. Holmes, o< 
Broadway, New York.] 

It has been remarked that, in America, Lake George 
holds the place of Loch Katrine in Scotland — that it is 
the Trosachs on a larger scale. There is much truth in 
this. The scenery of this charming district is indeed 
most beautiful; — mingling the soft and gentle wifh the 
bold, magnificent, and picturesque. Historical associa- 
tion also lends additional interest to Lakes George and 
Champlain. In days long gone by, these wild solitudes 
were frequently disturbed by the savage wars of the 
Indian tribes who then possessed the land ; and in later 
years, the peace of these beautiful lakes was broken by 
the loud artillery of modern warfare. Civilized soldiers 
and savages have fought side by side upon their shores, 
while fleets have contended on their waters. Indians, 
Americans, French, and British, have each played their 
part in the thrilling dramas and tragedies that have been 
enacted on and around these romantic waters. 

Besides being in themselves extremely grand and 



OLEN S FALLS. 



beautiful, the lakes are easy of access ; being situated 
near the head waters of the celebrated Hudson River, 
and on the route between New York and Canada. 



We will take it for granted that the traveller has reached 
Saratoga Springs, that celebrated resort of lovers of 
mineral waters, fresh air, and amusement. We will 
suppose that he has visited the springs, tasted the 
health-giving waters, wondered at the extraordinai-y 
powers of the invalids, who rise early in order to drink, 
and sit up late in order to dance, and we will conclude 
that he is now desirous of visiting the two romantic 
lakes which form the subject of this little volume. 

Let us proceed, then, by rail and plankroad, to Cald- 
well, at the head of lake George. The distance is twenty- 
eight miles,— fifteen miles from Saratoga to Moreau 
Station, by the Troy and Whitehall hne, and thirteen 
from thence to Caldwell. On the way we pass two spots 
of great interest and beauty, — Glen's Falls, nine miles, 
and the Bloody Pond, four miles from the lake. These 
spots oiight to be visited from Caldwell, and should have 
a day devoted to them. We have only time to glance at 
them in passing onward to the lakes, but we will pause 
to describe them particularly here. 

GLEN'S FALLS 

are situated in the upper Hudson River, about nine 
miles distant from Lake George. The total descent is 



BLOODY POND. 6 

7*2 feet, and the width of the river at the top of the fall 
is about 900 feet. The water descends in a succession 
of leaps over rugged rocks, amid which it boils and foams, 
spirts and thunders, in magnificent style, especially 
when the river is in full-flood, as it finds its way through 
the wild ravine, and emerges into the quiet lands 
below. 

It was here that Cooper laid some of the scenes in his 
well-known tale, " The Last of the Mohicans." Here 
the brave yet gentle Uncas, the stalwart Hawk-eye, 
and the other dramatis personce of that exquisite novel, 
enacted some of their finest parts ; and the caves below 
the bridge are associated with these stirring incidents of 
savage warfare. The traveller must be prepared, how- 
ever, to throw himself rather violently into these 
memories of the past, and to indulge romantic associa- 
tions under difficulties ; for modem civilization, and pro- 
gress, and peace, have planted on the stream mills of 
stern utility, and manufactories of sentiment-expelling 
common-placeness, which are apt to damp the spirits of 
all, save the most ardent enthusiasts. Clank, whirl, and 
spin, have taken the place of the rifle-cra'ck, the stealthy 
tread, and the war-whoop of the savage ! Shortly after 
leaving Glen's Falls, the road passes near the 

BLOODY POND. 

Here, in 1755, Colonel "Williams was killed in an en- 
gagement with the }?rench and their Indian allies, unaei 



6 CALDWELL. 

General Dieskau. An old boulder in the neighbourhood 
is still known as Williams^ Rock. The slain, on both 
sides of this sanguinary fight, were thrown into the 
pond, which derives its name from this circumstance. 

A little farther on, we obtain our first view of Horicon, 
and a surpassingly beautiful view it is. Descending 
the hills towards the lake, we soon arrive at the village 

of 

CALDWELL. 

The view in our Engraving is taken from Fori William 
Henry Hotel, which stands near to the ruins of the Old 
Fort. Here we will take up our abode, as the views 
from this new and elegant building are most exquisite, 
and the entertainment is admirable. The Lake Hov^e, 
is also a first rate establishment, commanding a very 
fine view of the lake, with its beautiful islands and the 
hills beyond. 

We may remark here that Toole's Inn, a few miles 
along the eastern shore, is conveniently situated for 
fishing quarters, and is more secluded than those at 
Caldwell. Bolto7i and Garjield may also be mentioned 
as good spots for a pleasant sojourn. The former is a 
particularly charming spot. Here, in the Mohican 
House, we may enjoy the comforts of a well-appointed 
hotel, while outside, all that is beautiful and attractive 
in nature awaits us. We strongly recommend a halt at 
this place. 

The village of Caldwell is beautifully situated at the 



k- *^n- 







..4 

4 


Avr.s'i^ 


i 1 


' 


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- 




LAKE GEORGE. 7 

southern end, or head, of Lake George. It contains two 
churches, a court-house, a jail, and a number of elegant 
private residences. There are above two hundred inha- 
bitants, and, during the summer months, it is crowded 
with visitors in search of health, or pleasure, or both. 
It is delightfully and conveniently situated for being 
our head quarters while engaged in exploring the 
beauties of the lake. 

The Ruim of Fort William Henry, which was built 
by the English in 1755, are close to the hotel of the 
same name. A short distance from the village, and 
about a mile to the south-east of this, are the Ruins of 
Fort George. A steamboat plies regularly between this 
village and the landing near Ticonderoga, at the other 
end of the lake, the distance being 36 miles. The trip 
there and back can be accomplished in a day, but we 
would strongly recommend a more leisurely survey of 
this Queen of Waters. In the summer of 1856, the 
steamer John Jay was destroyed by fire near Sabbath- 
day Point. It has been replaced by the present hand- 
some vessel, the boiler and furnace of which have been 
placed in a fire-proof iron case. Her name, Minne-ha-ha, 
which signifies laughing water., is taken fi'om Longfel- 
low's poem, Hiawatha. 

LAKE GEORGE. 

It may, perhaps, be advisable, before launching our- 
selves upon the placid and beautiful waters of this lake, 



8 LAKE GEORGE. 

to make a few brief statistical observations in regard to 
it. Lake George, then, is situated close to the eastern 
border of the State of New York, and its waters dis- 
charge in a northerly direction, into Lake Champlain. 
It is 36 miles long, lying north and south, and from 2 
to 3 miles wide. It is 243 feet above the tide-waters of 
the Hudson River. The water of the lake is remark- 
ably pellucid, and the basin in which it rests is covered 
with a yellow sand, so that the bottom is visible at a 
depth of seven fathoms. The surface of the lake is 
everywhere dotted with the most romantic-looking 
islands, and its shores are encompassed by picturesque 
hills, clothed with rich vegetation, and, many of them, 
rising to a height that entitles them to rank as moun- 
tains. The islands are said to equal in number the 
days in the year. Many are large and fertile, others 
are mere barren rocks. 

There are thousands of fish in the lake. Salmon-trout, 
silver-trout, brook trout, perch, pike, &c., are abundant, 
and of the finest quality. 

Fish may be caught in all parts of Horicon, but tlie 
best fishing grounds are at the head of the lake, near 
Bolton Landing and Shelving Rock. 

The Indian name of this lake is Horicon, or tlie sil- 
very waters, and we cannot help expressing regret that 
this euphonious ai)pellation has not been exclusively re- 
tained. The natives also called it Caniderioit, or, the 
tail of the lake, in reference to its position near the 



THE HEAD WATERS OP LAKE GEORGE. 9 

southern termination of Lake Champlain. It was named 
by the French Lac Sacrament, on account of the purity 
of its waters. 

This singular transparency of the water is the more 
remarkable that the waters on every side — those of Lake 
Champlain, of the Hudson, and of the whole region be- 
tween the Green Mountains and the Mississippi, — are 
more or less impregnated with lime. 

THE HEAD WATERS OF LAKE GEORGE, 

From the grounds of Fort William Henry Hotd. 

This view is exceedingly fine and animated, — the 
islands in the distance resting, if the weather be calm, 
on their own reflected images, and beyond these, the 
graceful outline of the hills cutting against the clear 
sky. The grounds of the hotel and the wharf in front 
are usually crowded with gaily dressed visitors, especially 
when the bright-looking steamer darts from the shore on 
its trip down the lake. This steamer is a graceful little 
boat, elegantly fitted up, and, in the beauty of its ap- 
pearance, very much in keeping with the lovely lake 
over which it darts with arrow-speed. She is 145 feet 
long, by 26 feet wide. During the summer season her 
decks are crowded with gay tourists, whose joyful voices, 
ringing over the lake, make the name of " laughing 
water" seem very appropriate. As the steamer rushes 
away, the flag that floats from the stern waves adieu to 



10 THE MASSACRE. 

the stripes and stars that flutter from the flag-staflF in 
front of the hotel. 

It is a gay, brilliant scene, and little fitted to call to 
remembrance the dark deeds that have been enacted 
here in former days. Nevertheless, we must beg the 
reader to turn aside while we relate one, perhaps the 
blackest of these. 

THE MASSACRE 

at Fort William Henry, 1757, is one of the most ter- 
rible episodes in the wai'S between the English and 
French :— 

" A British and provincial army having been collected 
at Fort Edward and Fort William Henry, under General 
Webb, for the reduction of the French works on Lake 
Champlain, the French sent a large army up the lake, 
under General Montcalm, for their defence. General 
Webb, then at Fort William Henry, learning from Major 
Putnam that this force had entered Lake George, returned 
immediately to Fort Edward; and the day following 
sent Colonel Monroe with his regiment to re-enforce the 
garrison at the lake. The day after Monroe's arrival, 
the French appeared at the Fort, laid siege to it, and 
demanded its surrender. The garrison, consisting of 
2500 men, defended themselves with much bravery for 
several days, expecting succour from Fort Edward ; but 
as none came, Monroe was obliged, on the 9th of August, 
to capitulate. By the articles of the capitulation, all 




i 




.^ 



THE MASSACRE. 11 

the public property was to be delivered to Montcalm, and 
the garrison were to march out with their arms and bag- 
gage, and to be escorted to Fort Edward, on condition 
of not serving against the French within the period of 
eighteen months. 

" The garrison had no sooner marched out of the fort, 
than a scene of perfidy and barbarity commenced, which 
it is impossible for language to describe. Regardless of 
the articles of capitulation, the Indians attached to the 
French army fell upon the defenceless soldiers, plunder- 
ing and murdering all that fell in their way. The French 
officers were idle spectators of this bloody scene; nor 
could all the entreaties of Monroe persuade them to 
furnish the promised escort. On that fatal day about 
1500 of the English were either murdered by the savages, 
or carried by them into captivity, never to return. 

" The day following these horrid transactions, Major 
Putnam was despatched from Fort Edward with his 
rangers, to watch the motions of the enemy. He reached 
Lake George just after the rear of the enemy had left 
the shore ; and the scene which was presented he de- 
scribes as awful indeed. 'The fort was entirely de- 
stroyed ; the barracks, out-houses, and buildings, were 
a heap of ruins ; the cannon, stores, boats, and vessels, 
were all carried away. The fires were still burning, — 
the smoke and stench offensive and sufi"ocating. In- 
numerable fragments of human skulls and bones, and 
carcasses half consumed, were still frying and broiling in 



12 ISLANDS OF LAKE GEORaE. 

the decaying fires. Dead bodies, mangled with scalp- 
ing-knives and tomahawks in all the wantonness 
of Indian barbarity, were everywhere to be seen. 
More than a hundred women, butchered and shock- 
ingly mangled, lay upon the ground still weltering 
in their gore. Devastation, barbarity, and horror, 
everywhere appeared ; and the spectacle presented 
was too diabolical and awful either to be endured or 
described.' " 

How peaceful the scene now! and how difficult to 
believe that a spot so lovely — so eminently fitted to 
soften the heart and fill it with gratitude to the Al- 
mighty Creator — should have been the theatre of deeds 
of ruthless barbarity which the arch-fiend himseK might 
strive in vain to out-do ! 

We turn gladly from this dark picture to the contem- 
plation of the now peaceful and beautiful 

ISLANDS OF LAKE GEORaE. 

Our View is taken from the west side of the lake. 

As we have before remarked, these are very numerous 
as well as varied in size and form. Some are of consi- 
derable extent, level and cultivated ; others rise in rug- 
ged cliffs from the water, their summits crowned with 
tufts of vegetation, and their crevices filled with cling- 
ing shrubs and stunted trees : some are bare rocks, on 
which the water-fowl make their nests ; and many are 



ISLANDS OF LAKE GEORGE. 13 

mere points, rising but a few feet above the water: bvit 
all are beautiful and interesting to those who have the 
good fortune to traverse their labyrinths. 

There are plenty of skiffs and boats on the lake, in 
which we may row and dream upon the placid waters 
and among the sweet islets of Horicon, until we have 
forgotten the present, and are revelling in the romantic 
memories of the past, — when these crystal ripples were 
cut only by the light bark-canoe of the red man, as he 
glided noiselessly through the vast solitudes in search of 
game, perchance of enemies. The pictures that are 
seen, in a retrospective glance, are generally strongly 
defined in powerful light and shade. The sunbeams of 
romantic association and adventure may be broad and 
vivid ; but the shadows of evil deeds and savage warfare 
are terribly dark and sombre. The woodman's axe now 
awakens the echoes which were wont to answer to the 
ring of the pioneer's rifle and the yell of his Indian foe ; 
while the canoe has given place to the more con- 
venient boat and the rapid steamer. Yet we may get 
out of the way of civilized sights and sounds, and find 
spots here where the descendant of the first owners of 
the soil might wander and dream until he should fancy 
the time of his forefathers had returned, and that he 
was still alone in the vast wilderness. 

But however pleasant dreaming may be, we are con- 
strained to interrupt it. The steamer is rapidly sweep- 
ing us through the midst of the most fairy-like scenes, 



14 ISLANDS OP LAKE GEORGE. 

and opening up to our view prospects of ever-changing 
grandeur and beauty, which claim our undivided atten- 
tion. 

" With every changing hour," writes Addison Rich- 
ards — " dawn, sunset, and night — with the varying 
weather — ^from the calm of drowsy morning to the eve 
of gathering storm— these islands are found in ever- 
changing phases. As they sleep for a moment in the 
deep quiet of a passing cloud-shadow, you sigh for rest 
in their cooling bowers. Anon the sun breaks over 
them, and you are still as eager to mingle in their now 
wild and lawless revelry. You may shake up the lake 
like a kaleidoscope, seeing with every varying change a 
new picture, by simply varying your relative position to 
these islands. Now you have a fore-ground of pebbly 
beach, or, perchance, of jagged rock or of forest debris, 
with the spreading water and the distance-tinted hills, 
to fill up the canvass ; or, peeping beneath the pendent 
boughs of the beech and maple, an Arcadian bower dis- 
closes vistas of radiant beauty." 

Description attempts in vain to convey an accurate 
idea of beautiful scenery. We quote the opinion of 
others, in order to tempt the traveller to visit this lovely 
spot— to go and see that which is so well worthy of being 
seen, but cannot be adequately described. 

The first island of interest that we pass, after leaving 
Caldwell, is Diamond Island, near Dunham Bay. It 
was a dep6t of military stores for Burgoyne's army in 



ISLANDS OP LAKE GEORGE. 15 

1777, and the scene of a sharp skirmish between the gar- 
rison and a body of Americans. 

Long Island is close to Harris Bay, in which Mont- 
cahn moored his bateaux in 1757. 

On Dome Island, twelve miles from Caldwell, Put- 
nam's men took shelter while he went to acquaint 
General "Webb with the enemy's movements. 

North-west Bay, just beyond Bolton, is an exceed- 
ingly beautiful part of the lake. 

Bolton itself is nothing, a mere " huddle" of huts, as 
its inhabitants appropriately term it. Its inn is every- 
thing, and that is everything to us ! The vicinity of 
Bolton is the favourite resort of the hunter and the pis- 
cator. The trout and bass taken here are frequently of 
enormous size. From the Pinnacle and other elevations 
in the neighbourhood, splendid views of the surrounding 
country and of Lake Champlain may be obtained, by 
those who love to tread the mountain-tops at break of 
day. This is one of the broadest parts of the lake, and 
the islands are numerous. 

Tongue. Mountain protrudes itself into the water 
here, cutting oflf North-west Bay from the main pas- 
sage ; and hard by, on the eastern shore, is 

Shelving RocJc, a bold semicircle of pallisades, famed 
for its dens of rattlesnakes and its good fishing. 

Black Mountain rises immediately behind Shelving 
Rock. It is a bold, prominent, and ever-visible object 
in the scenery of the lake, 2200 feet high. 



16 TDE NARROWS. 

Fourteen-Mile Island, in front of Shelving Rock, is 
tlie favourite temporary residence of those who chase the 
deer among the crags of Tongue Mountain. 

But let us prepare for a change in the scene, for our 
little vessel is now approaching 

THE NARROWS. 

The View of the Narrows gwen in our Engraving is 
taken from the south. 

The hills extend into the lake at this point, and con- 
tract it very considerably, while the height of the moun- 
tains renders the contraction more impressive and appa- 
rent. The Black Mountain rears his bulky form here to 
a height of above 2200 feet, and around are the boldest 
and most picturesque parts of the shores of Lake George. 
The water here is 400 feet deep, and wonderfully pel- 
lucid, permitting the eye to penetrate far down into its 
mysterious depths. 

The passage of the Narrows is a most interesting part 
of our voyage. There are few scenes more enchanting or 
more romantic than the intricacies of an island-studded 
lake. In passing through such scenery every faculty of 
the mind is roused to an unusual state -of activity. Like 
the moving pictures of a panorama, scene follows scene 
with a rapidity that gratifies and excites the mind, fill- 
ing the eye with ever-changing visions of beauty, and 
raising expectation to its utmost pitch, as each point or 
headland is passed, and the prospect is slowly unveiled 



IIIIW^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ lllilM^ 





THE NARROWS. 17 

Scenery of tliis kind, even although the land be unpic- 
turesque or barren, is always interesting from its novelty 
and variety ; but when, like the Narrows of Lake George, 
all around is grand, verdant, and lovely, the scene be- 
comes one which it is beyond the power of language 
to describe. 

" Between some of its beautiful islands, and between 
those islands and the shore, the lake assumes the char- 
acter of quiet river scenery. From the undisturbed 
state of the luxuriant vegetation at the water's edge, 
however, and the absence of the debris that is usually 
left by the freshets to which running streams are liable, 
the scenery is lovelier than that of most rivers, and 
differs from them as the shores of the tideless Mediter- 
ranean do from those of the disturbed Atlantic. At one 
point, in passing one of the Narrows, a broad expanse of 
lake opens up to view ; a distant island is seen resting on 
its soft reflection in the calm water ; beyond that is a 
neck of the mainland, darkened by the shadow of a 
neighbouring hill ; and, in tlie extreme distance, a mas- 
sive mountain, raising its bold top into the clouds, and 
rendered soft, blue, and indistinct, by the intervening 
atmosphere ; while several islets, clothed with rich ver- 
dure, shroud the foreground of the picture in deep, 
effective shadow. At other spots the prospect widens, 
revealing a sweep of the lake, studded with islands of 
various shape and size, whose verdure is tipped and 
streaked with trickling gleams of light." 



IS SABBATH-DAY POINT— ROGERS' SLIDE. 

Several miles beyond the Narrows we approach 
SABBATH-DAY POINT. 

Here historical associations and natural beauties crowd 
upon us in profusion. Towards the south the view of 
the Karrows is extremely fine ; while to the north we 
have the broad bay ; the landing and hotel at Garfield's ; 
Rogeri Slide, and the precipice of St. Anthony's Nose 
reflected in the clear water. 

In the year 1758 General Abercrombie landed on this 
fertile point, to rest and refresh his army of 16,000 men, 
while on his way to attack the French at Ticonderoga. 
It was Sabbath morning when they landed, — hence the 
name. Here, in 1756, a small band of colonists were 
attacked by a party of French troops and Indians, whom 
they defeated with great slaughter. Again, in 1776, the 
green sod of this point was stained with blood. A fight 
took place between a band of Tories, with their Indian 
allies, and a party of American militia, in which the 
former were signally defeated. 

The next point of peculiar interest that we come to is 

ROGERS' SLIDE, 

so named from Major Rogers, who, while flying from the 
Indians in 1758, practised upon them a ruse, by which 
he persuaded them that he had actually slid down the 
stupendous declivity, which is about 400 feet high, with a 
steep front of naked rock ; and well might the savages be 





I wM' 




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ROGERS' SLIDE. 19 

surprised at the bold IMajor's supposed descent, as they 
stood baffled on the brink of the tremendous diflf. It 
happened thus : — The Major ivas flying from his enemies, 
on snow-shoes, during the winter, and eluded pursuit until 
he reached the summit of this mountain. " Aware that 
they would follow his track, he descended to the top of 
the smooth rock, and, casting his knapsack and his 
haversack of provisions down upon the ice, slipped off 
his snow-shoes, and, without moving them, turned him- 
self about and put them on his feet again. He then re- 
treated along the southern brow of the rock several rods, 
and down a ravine he made his way safely to the lake 
below, snatched up his pack, and fled on the ice to Fort- 
George. The Indians in the meanwhile coming up to 
the spot, saw the two tracks, both apparently approach- 
ing the precipice, and concluded that two persons had 
cast themselves down the rock rather than fall into their 
hands. Just then they saw the bold leader of the 
Rangers making his way across the ice ; and, believing 
that he had slid down the steep face of the rock, con- 
sidered him under the special protection of the Great 
Spirit, and made no attempt at pursuit." 

The lake is narrowed here by Rogers' Slide on the one 
hand, and St. Anthony's huge Nose on the other. 

Prisoners' Island is two miles farther on. Here, 
during the wars, the prisoners taken by the English 
were confined ; and from this spot some of them escaped 
by swimming ashore. 



20 FORT TICONDEROGA. 

Howe's Landing lies to the west of Prisoners' Island. 
Here the English army under Abercrombie landed in 
1758, previous to attacking Ticonderoga. It is named 
after Lord Howe, who fell in that expedition. A little 
farther and we reach the foot of the lake, and the ter- 
mination of our pleasant voyage down this beautiful 
sheet of water. 

FORT TICONDEROGA. 

This fort was built by the French in 1756, and was 
named by them Carrillon. Happily its present beautiful 
Indian name has entirely supplanted the other. Ticon- 
deroga signifies noisy; and it is the name given by the 
natives to the falls at the outlet of Lake George. The 
fort is a peaceful ruin now ; but it was the scene of many 
a fierce struggle in the warlike days of old. 

Before reaching this fortress, however, we have a 
delightful walk or drive of four miles before us, along the 
short and sparkling stream that connects Lake George 
with Champlain, for Ticonderoga belongs to the latter 
lake. 

The turbulent little stream makes a descent of 230 
feet, in the course of which there are two series of 
beautiful cascades, called The Falls of Ticonderoga. 
The romance of these is done away, however, to some 
extent, by the manufactories which the good people of 
the villages of Alexandria and Ticonderoga have erected 
on the banks. Through these villages we pass on our 



* 



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FORT TICONDEROGA. 21 

way down. The walk is most charming. The scenery 
varies continually, and openings in the foliage reveal 
vistas of the distant landscape,— the lake, and the hills 
and valleys of Vermont beyond ; while the riotous stream 
foams and tumbles beside us, presenting at every turn 
new and beautiful combinations of rock and water, 
draped with rich verdure, the colours of which harmo- 
nize pleasantly with the bright blue peeps that we obtain 
of Lake Champlain ever and anon as we jog along. 

The Upper Falls, near the village of Alexandria, con- 
sist of a succession of bold leaps, which make a descent 
of 200 feet within the distance of a mile. The water 
power is unlimited ; for which latter utilitarian remark 
we apologize to the romantic reader. 

The Loioer Fall descends 30 feet perpendicularly, and 
is situated near the village of Ticonderoga, where it is 
turned aside and compelled to work, ere it continues its 
headlong passage to Lake Champlain. 

In 1758 Fort Ticonderoga was attacked by an English 
army of 16,000 men under Abercrombie ; the same army 
to which we have already referred as having landed, in 
passing, on Sabbath-day Point. They traversed Lake 
George in upwards of a thousand boats, and landed at 
the lower end in safety. Here, however, the good for- 
tune of the English forsook them. Their progress was 
much retarded as they approached the French lines, and 
they had frequent skirmishes with the enemy, in one of 
which Lord Howe was killed. Still they pressed for- 



22 PORT TICONDEROGA. 

ward, until their columns were broken and thrown into 
such disorder by the tliick woods, that their leader 
deemed it prudent to fall back and encamp for the night 
at the lower end of Lake George. 

The following day was one of dire disaster to the Eng- 
lish. The French garrison amounted to 6000 men, and 
an additional body of 3000 was on its way to re-enforce 
them. This was known to Abercrombie, who, anxious 
to make the assault before the succours could arrive, led 
forward his army to the attack early in the morning. 
The only point at which the fort was assailable was de- 
fended by a strong line of breastworks, composed of 
felled trees and bushes. As the English approached, a 
well-directed fire of artillery was opened upon them ; 
but they continued to advance with unflinching firmness 
until they gained the breastwork. Here, however, their 
progress was completely arrested. For four hours they 
vainly endeavoured with their swords to cut through the 
tangled masses of timber and branches, while a murder- 
ous fire of artillery and musketry was poured into them 
by the French, who were completely under shelter. At 
length Abercrombie, becoming convinced that his troops 
would be annihilated if the unequal conflict should be 
prolonged, gave the order to retreat, and the remnant 
of that fine army returned once again to their former 
encampment, having lost nearly 2000 men. The retreat 
was effected without further loss, as the French did not 
pursue them. 



FORT TICONDEROaA. 23 

The stronghold which had cost so much brave blood 
was obtained without a struggle the following year, 
when it was abandoned by the French and taken pos- 
session of by the English under General Amherst. 

Ticonderoga on another occasion changed hands with 
scarcely any shedding of blood. In 1775 it was ordered 
to be taken by a body of Americans. " The Green Moun- 
tain Boys" were selected for this work, and marched to 
the attack under their famous leader, Ethan Allen. 
On reaching the shore of the lake opposite the fort, 
Allen endeavoured to obtain a guide who was acquainted 
with the ground and the places of access to the fort. 
lie was successful. A boy named Nathan Beman, who 
was in the habit of playing with the boys of the fort, 
and knew every hole and comer about it, agreed to 
guide them. Some difficulty was at first experienced in 
procuring boats, but at length enough were obtained, 
and a party of 83 Americans crossed silently over about 
dawn on the 10th of May. While the boats returned 
for the remainder of his troops, Allen resolved to make 
the attack at once with the men that he had. Drawing 
them up in three ranks, he made them a short harangue, 
and then, placing himself at their head, led the way 
stealthily and rapidly up the heights. So silently had 
all the an-angements been made, that on arriving at the 
gates they were found wide open, and the first intimation 
the sentinel had of the presence of a foe was the sight 
of Allen and his men marching into the barrack-yard. 



24 FORT TICONDERuGA. 

The astounded sentinel snapped his musket at the bold 
leader and retreated. Another sentinel, more resolute 
than his comrade, wounded an officer with his bayonet, 
but was immediately cut down by Allen, and was con- 
strained to beg for quarter. 

The Americans now drew up on the parade-gi'ound, 
and announced their presence to the slumbering garrison 
by giving three hearty cheers. Allen then found his 
way to the apartment of the commandant, whom he 
aroused by demanding, in no gentle voice, that the fort 
should be instantly surrendered. The astonished French- 
man sprang from his bed, rubbed his eyes as if he sus- 
pected himself of dreaming, and asked by what authority 
his rude visitor presumed to make such a demand. "In 
the name of the great Jehovah and the Continental 
Congress," answered Allen. 

At first the commandant seemed inclined to argue the 
point, but a peremptory repetition of the demand, and 
an unmistakable gesture with the sword from the stout 
American, convinced him that descretion was the better 
part of valour. He ordered his men to parade without 
arms, and Ticonderoga was suiTendered. 

The garrison consisted of a captain, a lieutenant, and 
forty-eight privates, all of whom were taken prisoners 
and forwarded to Hartford. One hundi-ed and twenty 
pieces of cannon, besides swivels, mortars, and small 
arms, fell into the hands of the captors on this 
occasion. The fort remained in the possession of the 




SOUTH END QP LAKE CHAMPLAIN WIJh RUINS OF FORT TICONDEROGA. 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN-. 25 

Americans till 1777, when General Boiirgoyne laid siege 
to it. 

Mount Defiance, a hill not far from the fortifications 
at Ticonderoga, completely commands the fort, being 
considerably higher. The Americans supposed that it 
was impossible to convey cannon to its summit. They 
were mistaken, however ; Bourgoyne took possession of 
the hill and began to erect batteries on it. Seeing that 
all prospect of holding out against such circumstances 
was hopeless, St. Clair, the American general, resolved 
to abandon the post, and also Mount Independence, 
which he held at the time. The retreat was effected 
next morning, and Ticonderoga was taken possession of 
and held by the British till the close of the war. 

In our spirited engraving of the south end of Lake 
Champlain, Fort Ticonderoga is seen on the left, with a 
background of woods ; while, on the right, we have the 
windings of the lake, dotted with small craft. 

Leaving the old ruin behind us, we now turn to 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

This is one of the most interesting of the American 
lakes, both on account of its beautiful scenery and ita 
historical associations. It was discovered in 1609 by 
Samuel Champlain, the great founder of Quebec and the 
early settlements in Canada. 

Having established the infant colony on Cape 

Diamond, and passed the winter of 1608 there, Cham- 

4 



26 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

plain started, on the 28th of May 1609, to explore the 
interior. In order to facihtate his operations, he entered 
into an agreement with his Indian friends, who belonged 
to the celebrated Algonquin nation, to assist them in a 
proposed invasion of the lands of the Iroquois. Accord- 
ingly he took a band of soldiers along with him. Hav- 
ing passed Lake St. Peter, they arrived at the mouth of 
the river which he was told took its rise in the country of 
the Iroquois. This was the Richelieu. They had not pro- 
ceeded far, however, ere their progress was interrupted by 
the Chambly rapids, which dashed furiously from bank to 
bank amid rocks and stones. Up this the boat could not 
be taken, and the obstacles in the way of cutting a road 
through the woods were so great, that Champlain deter- 
mined to commit himself to the canoes of his savage 
allies, and share their fate. His men, however, refused 
to accompany him, with the exception of two, who seem 
to have been more courageous than the others. 

Leaving the rest of the party behind, the bold dis- 
coverer and his two men followed the savages. They 
can-ied the light canoes, arms, and baggage, half a league 
overland, and, re-embarking above the falls, they con- 
tinued their journey. Finally they emerged upon the 
magnificent bosom of the lake on which Champlain 
bestowed his name. The party, on deadly war intent, 
continued their voyage until they reached the beautiful 
waters of Lake George ; and here they caught the first 
glimpse of their enemies. 



liAKE CHAMPLAIX. 27 

The Iroquois instantly flew to arms, on beholding 
the invaders, and intrenched themselves beliind a strong 
fortification of trunks of trees. Nothing was done that 
night, however. It was spent by both parties in dancing 
their war dances, and shouting defiance to each other. 
Next day the two bands drew near to fight. Then, for 
the first time, the echoes of the lake reverberated with 
the report of fire-arms, and the breasts of the awe- 
stricken savages heaved with terror. Champlain fired 
an arquebus loaded with four balls, by which he killed 
two Indians and mortally wounded a third. Still the 
brave Iroquois stood their ground, recovered from their 
surprise, and poured in clouds of arrows; when another 
and another deadly shot from the thickets struck such 
terror into their hearts that they turned and fled pre- 
cipitately, abandoning their fortification, and seeking 
protection in the heart of the forest. A number were 
killed, and ten or twelve taken prisoners; and these 
latter were put to death in the usual savage fashion, 
with horrible tortures. 

The extent of Lake Champlain is as follows : It is 
120 miles long, from Whitehall at the southern to St. 
John's at the northern end. It lies north and south, and 
its northern extremity crosses the line that divides the 
United States from Canada. In breadth the lake varies 
from one fourth of a mile to thirteen miles, and it covers an 
area of 500 miles. Its waters are well stored with salmon, 
sturgeon, trout, pickerel, and other varieties of fish. 



28 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

Lake Champlain forms part of one of the main routes 
between the United States and Canada. The navigable 
waters of the Hudson are connected with it by the Cham- 
plain Canal, which is sixty-four miles long, and forty feet 
wide. It has twenty-one locks, and rises to a height of 
134 feet above the Hudson, descending again fifty-four 
feet to the lake. At Sandy Hill it has a feeder of con- 
siderable size, which is navigable. The cost of construc- 
tion was nearly 1,080,000 dollars; and it took about 
three years to complete, having been commenced in 
1816, and finished in 1819. This lake is also connected 
with the St. Lawrence and Montreal by canal and rail- 
way ; and also with New York, Boston, and Ogdensburg. 
Its waters are crowded with shipping of all kinds ; 
steamers, tugs, sloops, schooners, canal-boats, barges, 
and small craft, are constantly passing to and fro, giving 
life and animation to the scene. The steamers are first 
rate in all respects — swift, elegant, commodious, and well 
manned. They run daily from Whitehall to Rouse's 
Point, stopping at intermediate stations. 

The appearance of steamers at night is exceed- 
ingly grand. The wood with which their fires are fed 
sends forth clouds of the most brilliant sparks, which 
issue from their funnels like a magnificent pyrotechnic 
display ; and when the night chances to be so dark that 
the bodies of the vessels are not visible, they have the 
appearance of monstrous fiery serpents as they go rush- 
ing past. The first steamboat built on this lake com- 



WHITEHALL. 29 

nienced to run in 1809. There have been upwards of 
twenty steamers launched on its bosom smce then, and 
there are upwards of 200 sloops from 50 to 100 tons 
burden. 

From the town of Whitehall, situated at the southern 
extremity of Champlain, to Ticonderoga, the lake is 
very narrow, seldom exceeding a mile in breadth, and 
frequently being much less. There is a bend called the 
Elbow, about half a mile from Whitehall, which is so 
narrow that large boats have considerable difficulty in 
passing ; and steamers sometimes use a rope, fastened to 
the shore, to assist their helm in making the sharp turn. 
At Shole's LaJiding, a short distance from Mount Inde- 
pendence, the lake is only forty rods wide. As we approach 
the centre of the lake a large sheet of water spreads out 
to view, and the scenery is extremely picturesque, bold 
headlands appearing as we advance, and magnificent 
mountain ranges stretching away on either side, — 
the Green Mountains with the conspicuous Camel's 
Hump on the east, and the Adirondack range on 
the west. The latter abounds with iron ore and fine 
timber, and the highest peak rises to upwards of 5000 feet. 

The starting-point from the head of the lake is 

WHITEHALL. 

This is a bustling town, close beside the junction of 
the canal with lake Champlain. 
Travellers who have reached Champlain via Lake 



30 WHITEHALL. 

George do not touch here, but as some prefer- to travel 
from Albany direct by rail to Whitehall, we will begin 
with this village. 

It was a place of considerable importance during the 
early French and Indian wars, and afterwards during 
the war of Independence. It was known by the name 
of Skeenesborough, after Major Skeene,who resided here 
before the Revolution. The town is a great thorough- 
fare and very prosperous. It is situated in a wild rocky 
ravine at the foot of Skeene's Mountain. It was incor- 
porated in 1820, and contains a population of upwards 
of 4000. There are four churches, a bank, upwards of 
thirty stores, and numerous warehouses and mercantile 
establishments; besides two dry docks, two ship-building 
j^ards, and several tanneries, brickyards, &c. 

The hills in its immediate neighbourhood are high 
and rugged, while to the southward lies the valley formed 
by Wood Creek, in which were marshalled the French, 
English, and American armies, during the wars of 1759 
and 1776. During the latter war the American forces 
rendezvoused here, when the country was invaded by 
General Bourgoyne, this point and Lake George being 
the only two approaches from Canada. 

Duiing the old French war General Putnam escaped 
from the Indians, it is said, by plunging into the lake a 
mile to the north of Whitehall, and swimming his horse 
to the opposite shore. 

From this point travellers may, if so disposed, pro- 



CROWN POINT. 31 

coed on their journey northward by railway via Ver- 
mont, Castleton, Rutland, Burlington, &c., to Rouse's 
Point. 

Bemon, thirteen miles from Whitehall, is the first 
place at which the rushing steamer checks her onward 
course, and glides up to the landing. The lake begins 
to widen here a little. 

Orwell is the next halting point, seven miles farther 
on. The lake widens to two miles here. At the twenty- 
fourth mile from Whitehall the steamer reaches Ticon- 
deroga. Here she stops to pick up passengers who have 
sailed down Lake George, and here we will embark and 
proceed to examine the beauties of Champlain. 

During the greater part of the passage between Ticon- 
deroga and Burlington, a fine view is had of the Green 
Mountains, stretching along the eastern shore of the 
lake; and conspicuous features of the scene are the 
CameVs Hump, and the Nose and Chin of Marisjield 
Mountains, farther to the north. 

The first place of peculiar interest that we come 

to is 

CROWN POINT. 

The fort here was surprised and taken by the Green 
Mountain Boys, under Seth Warner, o i the same day 
in which Ethan Allen took Ticonderoga. The lake 
widens up a little between Ticonderoga and Crown 
Point, and there are two or three landing-places on the 
east side. 



32 CROWN POINT. 

The first settlement was made here in 1731, by the 
French, who built a fort, which they named Fort St. Fre- 
derick, after Frederick Maurepas, the French Secretaiy 
of State. This fort was erected on the brow of a steep 
bank close to the water, and the dilapidated ruins of its 
ovens, bomb-proof covered way, and walls, are still to be 
seen. 

The settlement here flourished for some time under 
the protection of the French garrison, from which, dur- 
ing the colonial wars, parties were sent out frequently 
to destroy the frontier Enghsh settlements and massacre 
the inhabitants. In 1749 there were well cultivated 
fields and gardens around the fort, and a small church 
within its walls. Close to it were two strong redoubts, 
and a battery named Grenadier's Battery. 

In 1759, Crown Point fell into the hands of the Bri- 
tish. On the approach of General Amherst and the 
English army, the French abandoned the position and 
retired to the north end of the lake. Instead of repairing 
the French works, however, the British General com- 
menced a new fort on higher ground, about 200 yards to 
the south-west of the old buildings, and named it Crown 
Point. The work, however, was never finished, although 
enormous sums were expended upon it by the British 
Government. It was begun on a magnificent scale, as 
the remains show. The ramparts were twenty-four feet 
high and about twenty-five feet thick, and riveted with 
solid masonry. The whole circuit of the fort was nearly 



roRT CASSiN. 33 

half a mile. In one of the bastions there is a deep well, 
and an under-ground communication with the lake. The 
barracks, some of which are still standing, were built of 
solid masonry, and the width of the Point on wliich the 
remains of the fort stand is about a mile. 

CMmTiey Point is on the opposite shore. It was pro- 
bably so named on account of the chimneys of the French 
huts, which remained standing after the position was 
abandoned in 1759. The width of the lake between the 
two points is about half a mile. 

Port Henry is situated on Cedar Point, on the same 
side with Crown Point— from which it is one and a half 
mile distant — at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay. There 
is excellent iron ore in this neighbourhood, which is 
worked by the Port Henry Iron Company. 

West Port, sixteen miles from Crown Point, is on 
North-west Bay, on the east side of the lake. There is a 
ferry here across the lake to Basin Harbour, in Ver- 
mont. The place is prosperous, and contains upwards 
of 800 inhabitants. 

Basin Harbour is the landing for the city of Vergennes, 
from which it is five miles distant. 

FORT CASSIN 
is three miles north of Basin Harbour, and was formerly 
a landing-place of passengers for Vergennes. Here was 
fitted out the fleet with which Commodore Macdonough 
gained his victory over the British in 1814. The fort 



34 SPLIT ROCK. 

was named after Lieutenant Cassin of the American 
navy. This gallant officer, with 200 men, commanded 
by himself and Captain Thornton of the artillery, re- 
pulsed, on the 14th May 1814, a strong British force 
which attempted to destroy the American fleet, then 
getting ready for sea in the neighbouring creek. 

SPLIT ROOK. 

This is the most remarkable natural curiosity on the 
lake. It is an enormous mass of rock, about half an 
acre in extent, and thirty feet above the level of 
the water, which has been detached from the neighbour- 
ing cliff, and separated from it about twelve feet. The 
cause which effected the separation is not very certainly 
ascertained. Some think that a convulsion of nature 
did it ; but it is more probable that a dike of soft 
material formerly filled up the chasm, and that this has 
been washed out. The water flows through this narrow 
gorge when the lake is high, but when the lake is low 
the passage is nearly dry. The rock is covered with 
bushes and luxuriant herbage. This rock is noticed in 
Charlevoix's map of 1744 as Rocher Fendu. 

Beyond this point the lake widens considerably, and 
at M'Neil's Ferry, between the village of Essex and 
Charlotte's Landing, it is nearly three miles in width. 

A lighthouse stands a little to the south of Split 
Rock. 

Essex is a little village opposite Charlottes Landing, 




SPLIT ROCK- LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 



BURLINGTON. 35 

sixty-one miles from Whitehall. It contains upwards 
of 700 inhabitants. 

Four Brothers are four small islands, on which, in con- 
sequence of their lying out of the line of passage, and there- 
fore being undisturbed, the gulls delight to congregate. 
They lie about seven miles to the south-west of Burlington. 

Juniper Island lies four miles beyond the Four 
Brothers. A lighthouse was erected on it in 1826. It 
has precipitous banks of slate rock, about thirty feet high. 

Not far from this, Rock Dundee rises out of the 
water to a height of about thirty feet ; and close to it 
is Pottiefs Point, at the mouth of Shelburu Bay. There 
is a ship-yard here, called the Harbour, in which some 
of the large steamboats are usually laid up during the 
winter ; and here several of them have been built. 

Two and a half miles farther on we come to a halt at 
the landing-place of 

BURLINGTON. 

Our Engraving represents this beautiful town as seen from 
the land, not from the water. 

This is one of the most important towns in tlie State 
of Vermont. It is twenty-five miles from Plattsburg 
and fifty from Rouse's Point, situated on a fine bay of 
the same name on the eastern shore of the lake, and 
possessed of an excellent harbour for steamers and large 
craft. A breakwater protects it from the westerly winds 
and renders it doubly secure. The town is the centre ol 



36 BURLINGTON. 

several important lines of railway and steamboat com- 
munication: it contains a population of about 9000 
inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in size and pros- 
perity. Burlington is a port of entry, and, by aiTange- 
ments between the American and British Governments, 
is one of the two ports on the lake at which merchandise, 
passing from England through the United States into 
Canada, is entered for inspection and exportation. The 
other port of entry is Plattsburg. 

The position of the town is exceedingly beautiful, and 
some of the buildings are very picturesque, particularly 
those of the University of Vermont, which was founded 
in 1791. They consist of four spacious edifices. From 
the dome on the principal of these the view is magnifi- 
cent. On one hand we have the Winooski River, which 
tumbles in wild haste through dark ravines until it finds 
rest in the peaceful meadow-lands to the north. Farms 
and hamlets spread out in the distance, while at our 
feet lies the busthng town, with its Episcopal Institute, 
its court-house and jail; eight churches of different 
denominations, banking-houses, hotels, factories, mills ; 
and four wharves, with warehouses, merchandise, and 
shipping. Beyond lie the beautiful waters of the lake 
— nearly ten miles wide at this point — on which steamers, 
sloops, barges, and boats are continually passing, while 
the shouts of their crews mingle with the buzz of the 
busy fraternity on shore. 

There is a gas-work here which supplies the town. 




f'^ 



> .v»;' 




BURLTOQTOy. 37 

There is a pioneer mechanics' shop, in which are 
several extensive manufactories carried on by steam- 
power. 

Wherever we travel in this world, we find a certain 
class of individuals whose chief delight is to ascend to 
the highest possible pinnacle of the highest mountain or 
hill in any given locality. For the benefit of such in- 
dividuals we may mention that Mansfield Mountain 
(4279 feet high) lies twenty miles to the north-east of 
Burlington, and the CameVs Hump (4183 feet high) is 
about the same distance to the south-east. To both of 
these hills conveyances may be obtained here. The 
Vermont Central Railway runs near the base of the 
latter mountain. From the summits of both the views 
are most magnificent. 

Winooski is a thriving manufacturing village little 
more than a mile from Burlington, near the Lower Falls 
of the Winooski River. The water-power here is very 
great, and the inhabitants have made use of it pretty 
extensively, various mills, and cotton and woollen fac- 
tories, and other establishments, having been erected 
near the banks of the turbulent stream. 

Port Kent is situated on the opposite side of the lake, 
about ten miles distant. The site of the village is beau- 
tiful, and the view of the lake from the landing is 
particularly fine. 

TremUeu Point, the commencement of the Clinton 
range of mountains, lies to the south of the landing at 



38 AU SABLE RIVER— PORT JACKSOX. 

Port Kent. An immense quantity of iron is shipped 
from this port. 

From this place to Plattsbiirg the course is along 
the western shore of the lake. 

THE AU SABLE RIVER, 
which flows into the lake a little to the north of Port 
Kent, passes through a region which is rich in iron ore. 
On its banks there are several flourishing manufacturing 
villages: Au Sable Fork, Clinton ville, Keeseville, Bir- 
mingham, &c. At Birmingham and the Au Sable Chasm 
below — two miles frc«n Port Kent — the falls on the river 
are very fine and well worth visiting. The ravine at the 
Chasm is singularly beautiful and romantic. The rocks 
rise perpendicularly on either side of the river from 80 
to 150 feet for a distance of nearly two miles, the aver- 
age width being about fifty feet. We strongly advise a 
short sojourn here. At Keeseville, four miles from 
Port Kent, there is an excellent hotel named the Au 
Sable House. 
The next landing we reach is 

PORT JACKSON. . 

This neighbourhood is noted for a severe naval engage- 
ment which took place near Valcour Island, opposite, 
in 1776, between the American fleet, under General 
Arnold, and that of the British, under Captain Pringle. 
The action began about twelve o'clock, and lasted until 



PORT JACKSON. 39 

night closed in, neither side having gained the victory. 
Arnold found his ships in such a crippled condition, 
however, that he resolved not to risk another engage- 
ment, and under cover of the night he made a bold dash 
through the enemy's line, and escaped without having 
been observed. 

In the morning the British gave chase. The result 
was the destruction of the American vessels. Arnold 
held out gallantly to the last, and, when he found that 
there was no chance of escape, boldly ran his vessels 
ashore, about ten miles below Crown Point, and set them 
on fire. After they were burned, he and his men made 
good their retreat to Crown Point. 

About six miles east from Port Jackson, the steamer 
Phoenix was burned. This is the only accident of the 
kind, worth mentioning, that has occurred since the 
commencement of steam navigation on the lake in 1809. 
It happened on the 5th of September 1819. 

*' On the morning of the accident, the Phoenix left 
Burlington about one o'clock, against a strong head-wind. 
About three o'clock, while off nearly west of the south 
end of Grand Isle, the boat was discovered to be on fire, 
and all efforts to extinguish it were unavailing. There 
were at this time forty-four persons on board, thirty-one 
of whom entered the small boats, and succeeded, with 
considerable difficulty, in reaching a small island about 
fi mile to windward, called Providence Island. The 
remaining thirteen were soon obliged to commit them- 



40 PLATTSBURa. 

selves to the water upon bits of plank, and such other 
things as were within their reach. The small boata 
returned just after daylight, and succeeded in saving six 
of those who had managed to keep themselves afloat. 
The remaining seven were drowned. The wreck drifted 
southward, and lodged on a reef extending from Col- 
chester Point." 
The next point we pass is the village of 

PLATTSBURG. 

Our View is taken from the land. 

This is a spot of peculiar interest, as having been the 
scene of a brilliant engagement during the last war with 
the British. 

This flourishing village is pleasantly situated on both 
sides of the Saranac River, in Clinton county, New 
York. It contains about 4000 inhabitants, and on the 
river there are several mills and manufactories. The 
water-power here is considerable, and there is a succes- 
sion of falls which make a total descent of forty feet. 
This is one of the United States military posts, where 
the Government have extensive barracks. The country 
is rich in mineral productions, particularly iron ore of 
fine quality. The steamers touch here daily during the 
season of navigation, and there is a good break-water 
for the protection of the shipping in the harbour of 
Cumberland Bay. The Plattsburg and Montreal Rail- 



( 



NAVAL ENaAGEMENT. 41 

way starts from this village, running to Caughnawaga, 
a distance of sixty-two miles. 

The engagement that took place here between the 
British and American fleets and armies, in September 
1814, is a stirring incident in the history of those times. 

NAYAL ENGAGEMENT AND BATTLE OF 
PLATTSBURG. 

In the summer of 1814, Lake Champlain became the 
theatre of one of the fiercest struggles that took place be- 
tween the Americans and the British during the last war. 
The battle on the lake and the assault on land occurred 
on the same day, the 11th September ; and terminated with 
the same result, — the total defeat of the British. 

Commodore Macdonough commanded the American flotilla, 
which was lying in Plattsburg Bay, and which consisted of 
the flag-ship Saratoga, of 26 guns; the Eagle, of 20; the 
Ticonderoga, of 17; the Preble, of 7; and ten gun-boats, 
carrying in all 16 guns. The crews amounted altogether to 
880 men. 

Commodore Downie commanded the British fleet, which 
consisted of the frigate Confiance, of 37 guns ; the Linnet, of 
16 guns; the Chub, of 11; the Finch, of 11; and 12 gun- 
boats, carrying together 20 guns. The crews amounted in 
all to i^pv.'ards of 1000 men. The metal on both sides was 
ver^ neavy. 

On the 7th or September, General Prevost appeared before 
Plutts^urg witii the British army, consisting of 14,000 men, 
and taking up a position, awaited the arrival of the fleet un- 
der Cai>tain Pownie. Plattsburg was commanded by General 
Macomb at the time, and was garrisoned by one brigade, and 
a large body of militia. 

It was Sunday morning when the fight began. Just as 
the sun rose over the eastern mountains, the American 

6 



42 NAVAL ENGAGEMENT 

guard-boat on tlie watch was seen rowing swiftly into the 
harbour, bearing intelligence that the enemy was in sight. 
The drums immediately beat to quarters, and every vessel 
was cleared for action. The preparations being completed, 
Commodore Macdonough summoned his officers around him, 
and read prayers on the deck of the Saratoga. It was a 
solemn and thrilling spectacle. One probably never before 
witnessed in a ship of war cleared for action. 

As the enemy drew near, the churches on shore were de- 
serted, and every eminence was crowded with anxious spec- 
tators. On one side was the hostile squadron coming down 
to the sound of music, — on the other stood the armies on 
shore in order of battle, with their banners flying, — between 
lay Macdonough's little fleet at anchor, silently awaiting the 
coming struggle. 

The English vessels, under easy sail, swept one after an- 
other round Cumberland Head, and approached bows on. 
The first shot was fired by the Americans from the Eagle, 
which opened her broadsides. Startled by the sound, a cock 
on board the Saratoga, which had escaped from the coop, 
flew up on a gun-slide and crowed ! an action which was re- 
ceived with a loud laugh and three hearty cheers by the crew, 
who regarded it as a happy omen. Macdonough reserved 
his fire till the enemy sailed closer up, and, when the Con- 
fiance came within range, he sighted a long twenty-four and 
fired. The heavy shot struck the Confiance, and, passing 
along the entire length of her deck, killed many of her men, 
and carried away the wheel. This was the signal for all the 
vessels to open fire, and in a moment the quiet bay resounded 
with the thunder of artillery, while clouds of thick smoke 
rose into the clear sky. 

The Confiance did not return the fire, but held steadily on 
till within quarter of a mile of the Saratoga ; then she let go 
her anchors, swung round, and delivered her whole broad- 
side with a terrific crash. The Saratoga quivered from kel- 
son to crosstrees under the tremendous discharge; nearly 



AND BATTLE OF PLATTSBFRQ. 43 

half her crew were knocked down, and fifty men were either 
killed or wounded. The next moment the men recovered 
from the stunning effects of the sudden and awful discharge, 
and the Saratoga poured her broadside into the English ship 
with terrible effect, while the latter replied so rapidly that 
she seemed enveloped in flame. 

The fire soon became so hot that the Eagle could not with- 
stand it; she changed position, and fell in nearer shore, 
leaving the Saratoga to sustain almost alone the whole weight 
of the unequal contest. She returned broadside for broad- 
side, but the weight of metal was against her, and she was 
fast becoming a wreck, while her deck presented a scene of 
the most frightful carnage. Suddenly a cry of despair rang 
out from stem to stern, — " The Commodore is killed ! " and 
the brave commander lay senseless upon the blood-stained 
deck. This was a mistake, however ; Macdonough had been 
knocked down by the boom, which was cut away by a shot, 
and fell upon him ; but in a few minutes he recovered, and, 
taking his place beside the gun that he had sighted from the 
commencement of the action, again cheered on his men. 

A second time the cry was raised, "The Commodore is 
killed!" and every eye was turned to Macdonough, who 
had been hurled completely across the ship, and lay between 
two guns covered with blood. But again the hero revived, 
and, limping to his gun, coolly continued to hull the enemy. 
At last all the guns on the side of the Saratoga next the 
enemy were rendered useless, and it seemed as if there were 
nothing left but to surrender. But the sailing-master hit 
upon an expedient by which the vessel was swung round, 
and the other broadside brought to bear. 

Meanwhile the Confiance was tembly shattered. The 
British Commodore, Captain Downie, had fallen soon after 
the battle began, and the ship had been hulled a hundred and 
five times. Observing the manoeuvre of her antagonist, she 
endeavoured to imitate it, but failed, and lay with her 
crippled side exposed to the fresh fire of the Saratoga, 



44 NAVAL ENGAGEMENT 

Further resistance was therefore useless, and in a few minutes 
slie surrendered. The Saratoga then brought her guns to 
bear on the Linnet, which struck after twenty minutes fire. 

While this terrific contest was going on between the chief 
ships of the opposing squadrons, the others were not idle. 
The Ticonderoga, especially, under Lieutenant Cassin, was 
handled in a manner that astonished every one. This 
fearless officer walked backward and forward over his 
blood-stained decks encouraging his men, and apparently 
quite unmindful of the iron storm that rained around him. 
His broadsides were so rapid and incessant, that several 
times the vessel was thought to be on fire. 

Soon after the commencement of the engagement the Chub 
received a broadside from the Eagle, which so crippled her 
that she drifted between the opposing vessels and struck. 
The Finch was driven from her position by the Ticonderoga, 
and drifted on the shoal near Crab Island. Here she was 
fired into by the battery on that island, and surrendered. 
Soon after this, the British gun-boats attempted to close, and 
compelled the sloop Preble to cut her cables and anchor in 
shore of the line, where she was of no service during the en- 
gagement. They also made several gallant assaults on the 
Ticonderoga, but were unsuccessful. Afterwards, as flag after 
flag was lowered, the gunboats took to their sweeps and escaped. 

The action lasted two hours and a half, and the loss on 
both sides was very severe. So fiercely had the contest raged, 
that there was not a mast in either fleet fit for use at its close. 

Among those killed on the British side were, Captain 
Downie, Captain Alexander Anderson, Midshipman William 
Gunn, and Lieutenant William Paul. Among others the 
Americans lost Lieutenant Peter Gamble, Lieutenant John 
Stansbnrg, Midshipman J. M. Baldwin, and Sailing Master 
Kogers Carter. 

Lieutenant Gamble of the Saratoga was on his knees sight- 
ing a gun when a British shot entered the port, split the 
quoin, drove a portion of it against his breast, and laid him 



AND BATTLE OF PLATTSBURQ. 45 

dead on the deck without breaking the skin. Quarter of an 
hour later an American shot struck the muzzle of a twenty- 
four in the Confiance, which was driven bodily inboard, and 
struck Captain Downie on the groin, killing him also without 
breaking the skin. 

The Battle of Plattsburg was fought on shore while the 
conflict was raging on the lake. The first shot from the 
ships was the signal to begin; and, as the thunder of Prevost's 
heavy batteries mingled with the incessant broadsides of the 
squadrons, the very shores trembled, and far over the lake 
the echoes rolled away, carrying anxiety and fear into the 
quiet farm-houses of Vermont. But when the flag of the 
British Commodore was struck, the enemy on land, disheart- 
ened and confused, retreated across the Saranac, and the 
battle ceased. 

Leaving the scene of this tremendous conflict we con- 
tinue our voyage. 

Cumberland Head, just passed, is a peninsula which 
extends between two and three miles into the lake, oppo- 
site the village of Plattsburg, and forming Cumberland 
Bay, into wliich the Saranac River flows. On this point is 
situated the farm presented to Commodore Macdonough 
by the Legislature of Vermont. The point is connected 
with South Hero Island by a ferry. This is the largest 
island on the lake. It belongs to the jurisdiction of Ver- 
mont, and is connected with the main shore by a bridge. 

Proceeding onward, we next pass Chazy Landingy 
sixteen miles from Plattsburg. 

Isle La Motte is a fine large island, six miles long by 
two wide, with a good marble quarry. It is attached to 
Vermont. 



46 rouse's point. 

At length we reach the termination of the lake and 
of our voyage at 

ROUSE'S POINT. 

This is the last landing-place on the lake within the 
United States, 25 miles from Plattsburg and 125 from 
Whitehall. Immediately beyond is the head of the 
Richelieu, or Sorel River, and the British territory. 
" On a low point about a mile northward of the landing, 
the United States Government commenced building a 
fort in 1815, and after expending about two hundred 
thousand dollars, it was discovered that the ground was 
British soil. The work was abandoned, and so remained 
until the conclusion of the treaty formed by Daniel 
Webster and Lord Ashburn in 1842, when the territorial 
line was run a little north of the fort, the building of 
which was then resumed. 

The line of separation is twenty-three miles south of 
St. John's. A broad strip, running east and west, cut 
into the forest on either side, indicates the limit of 
American and British dominion. 

Railways come in here from the eastern States through 
Vermont, and are prolonged by the Champlain and St. 
Lawrence Road to Montreal. 

Travellers to Canada may continue their voyage by 
steamboat to the head of navigation on these waters, at 
the town of St. John's. A long and massive drawbridge 
is thrown over the foot of Lake Champlain, for the ac- 



rouse's point. 47 

commodation of the railway traffic passing from Montreal 
and Ogdensburg to New York and Boston. This is 
the only thoroughfare between the Eastern States and 
Canada during the winter months. 

Rouse's Point is a port of entry, and travellers on arriv- 
ing or departing, are subjected to the annoyance of having 
their baggage examined by the custom-house officers. 

Ash Island, between three and four miles north of 
the line, is regarded as the termination of the lake and 
the commencement of the Richeheu River, which forms 
its outlet. The river here is about half a mile wide. 

La Colle, on the west side, was a miUtary post of the 
British during the last war. An unsuccessful attack 
was made on it by the Americans in 1814. 

Isle aux NoiXy a strongly fortified position, twelve 
miles north of Rouse's Point, is the British frontier post 
and the first landing in Canada. It is occupied by 
British troops, and completely commands the channel 
of the river. 

Alhurg, Vermont, is on a triangular piece of ground 
projecting from Canada into the lake, which surrounds 
it, except on the Canada side. The village of Alburg, 
a port of entry, lies on the eastern shore ; and to the 
north of this a few miles, are the Alburg Springs, a 
celebrated watering-place. 

Eighgate Springs, seventeen miles from Rouse's 
Point, is another favourite resort, afi'ordiug excellent 
fishing and hunting. 



48 rouse's point. ^f^ *v 

Misdsquoi Bay lies chiefly in Canada, or north of 
the forty-fifth degree of north latitude. This large sheet 
of water is romantically situated amid very beautiful 
scenery. The climate is delightful and invigorating. 
Fishing and hunting are to be enjoyed on its shores, and 
hundreds of visitors crowd to it annually in search of 
health and amusement. 

It is a fitting termination to Lake Champlain, which, 
in connection with Lake George, forms one of the most 
beautiful, interesting, and enjoyable localities and sum- 
mer resorts in the United States of America. 



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